Glycolic vs Lactic Acid: Which Exfoliant Is Better for Dark Skin?

Exfoliation is that friend who always tells you the truth, sometimes a little harsh, but ultimately, they just want the best for you. It’s the skincare step that helps you clear dead skin cells, unclog pores, and reveal the fresh, radiant skin hiding underneath. No matter the skin type or concern you have, from dullness, stubborn dark spots, or uneven texture, you still have to exfoliate because it’s one of the best ways to always have fresh and healthy skin.  There are two main routes to exfoliation: physical exfoliation (like scrubs, brushes, and all things grainy) and chemical exfoliation (acids that dissolve dead skin cells without scrubbing). For dark skin, chemical exfoliants, especially Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) like Glycolic Acid and Lactic Acid, are often the better choice. Physical exfoliants can be too abrasive and cause micro-tears, leading to irritation and hyperpigmentation. Glycolic Acid and Lactic Acid are two of the most popular AHAs in the skincare game, each one promising smoother, brighter skin. But which one is the real MVP for dark skin? What is Glycolic Acid? Glycolic Acid is the smallest AHA, which means it can penetrate deeply into the skin to speed up cell turnover. This is great for tackling stubborn hyperpigmentation, uneven texture, and fine lines. It also helps with breakouts by keeping pores clear, making it a favourite for oily and acne-prone skin. Since Glycolic Acid works so deep, it’s often hailed as the stronger exfoliant. However, for dark skin, that’s both a blessing and a potential curse. Darker complexions naturally produce more melanin, and when irritated, the skin can respond with post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), aka those dark spots that take forever to fade. Because Glycolic Acid is quite potent, overuse or high concentrations can trigger irritation, redness, and unwanted discolouration. The trick is to start with a low percentage (5-8%) and always follow up with SPF, as exfoliation and sun exposure are a recipe for hyperpigmentation. READ ALSO: Skincare Ingredients You Should Never Mix (And What to Use Instead) Here are some glycolic acid product recommendations: 1. The Ordinary Glycolic Acid 7% Toner This glycolic acid toner from The Ordinary has reached icon status in the skincare world because it’s a no-nonsense, high-performance exfoliant. This water-based toner contains 7% glycolic acid, which helps get rid of dead skin cells and reveal a smoother, brighter complexion. It also contains a Tasmanian Pepperberry derivative, which helps calm down irritation. Additionally, this is a multitasking toner that isn’t just for your face alone. It can also be applied to rough areas on the body, and the TikTok girls swear by this toner for brightening dark underarms and inner thighs. Use this in your evening routine and always follow up with SPF during the day to protect your skin from sun sensitivity. Price: ₦27,500 – ₦35,000. Where To Buy: Shop Coco Rosey. 2. Alpha Skincare Renewal Body Lotion (12% Glycolic Acid) If you struggle with rough, dry, or bumpy skin, this 12% glycolic acid body lotion might transform your complexion. Unlike regular body moisturisers, this formula does double duty by exfoliating dead skin while deeply hydrating.  With a pH of 4.0, it is gentle and effective. This lotion is best for smoothing out rough patches, especially on arms, legs, and elbows. Apply to damp skin after showering for better absorption. Price: ₦17,999. Where To Buy: Shop Shop Station. 3. Pixi Glow Tonic (5% Glycolic Acid) A cult favourite for a reason, Pixi’s Glow Tonic dominated my TikTok feed during the COVID-19 quarantine. It contains 5% glycolic acid to gently exfoliate, refine pores, and boost skin radiance. Formulated with ginseng and aloe vera, this toner smooths and hydrates and soothes the skin. This toner would be enjoyed by beginners or those with normal-to-dry skin who want a gentle exfoliation. If you have sensitive skin, use it every other night and gradually increase the frequency. Price: ₦26,000. Where to Buy: Shop TOS Nigeria. READ ALSO: Get Baby-Soft Skin With These Exfoliating Body Scrubs Under ₦20,000 What is Lactic Acid?  If Glycolic Acid is the bold, no-nonsense AHA, Lactic Acid is its softer, more considerate sibling. It has a larger molecular structure, so it doesn’t penetrate as deeply, making it a gentler option for exfoliation. But don’t mistake gentleness for weakness; Lactic Acid still works wonders at brightening dull skin, smoothing texture, and fading discolouration. What makes Lactic Acid extra special is its hydrating properties. Unlike Glycolic Acid, which can sometimes leave the skin feeling tight, Lactic Acid actually also increases the skin’s moisture level. For anyone with dry or sensitive dark skin, this might be a great addition to their routine. Less irritation means a lower chance of triggering PIH, which means Lactic Acid is a safer bet for treating hyperpigmentation. Here are some lactic acid product recommendations:  1. Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 6% Mandelic + 2% Lactic Acid Liquid Exfoliant Lactic acid lovers, this one’s for you! This 6% mandelic acid + 2% lactic acid toner is both gentle and effective, and it can be used by sensitive skin types. Unlike glycolic acid, lactic acid hydrates while also exfoliating and it makes your skin feel soft, smooth, and never dry or tight. It also contains cherry blossom and yarrow root extract to support and calm the skin’s microbiome. Layer this under a hydrating serum to maximise its glow-boosting effect. Price: ₦31,000. Where to Buy: Shop The Beauty Prism.