What is Retinol, and Why is Everyone Obsessed with It?

If you’ve spent any time on TikTok, you’ve probably come across beauty influencers raving about retinol, the so-called “fountain of youth” in a bottle. They say it erases fine lines, gives you glass skin, and might even make you look like you’ve been bathing in milk and honey. Sounds magical, right? But if you’ve also heard about the infamous “retinol purge” or seen horror stories of peeling, red faces, you might be wondering: What exactly is retinol, and how do I use it without turning into a tomato? Don’t worry—you’ve come to the right place. This guide will explain everything you need to know about retinol, from its actual function to how to introduce it into your skincare routine without damaging your skin. What is Retinol, and Why is Everyone Obsessed with It? Retinol is a vitamin A derivative and belongs to a group of compounds known as retinoids. It’s one of the most well-researched (dating back to World War I) and dermatologist-approved ingredients for improving skin texture, boosting collagen production, and reducing acne. The United States Food and Drug Administration (FDA) approved retinol as the first anti-wrinkle agent due to its unparalleled ability to repair and visibly improve ageing skin. Here’s how it works: Once applied to the skin, retinol converts into retinoic acid, which increases cell turnover, fades dark spots, and helps keep pores unclogged. It stimulates your fibroblast cells (a type of cell that produces collagen fibres and proteins which contribute to the skin’s elasticity). It regulates sebaceous glands, which are small glands on the outer layer of the skin that produce sebum (oil). This, in turn, regulates the production of oil on the skin to control oily skin and manage breakouts. The result is smoother, firmer, and more radiant skin. But before you rush to slather retinol on like butter on toast, know this: retinol is powerful. If misused, it can leave your skin dry, irritated, red, and flaking. That’s why starting slow and using it properly is essential in order to reap the benefits without the drawbacks. The Benefits of Retinol Why should you consider adding retinol to your skincare routine? Here are some of its impressive benefits: Reduces fine lines and wrinkles—Retinol stimulates collagen production, which makes skin firmer and reduces the appearance of ageing signs. A study conducted on 36 elderly people who used 0.4% retinol up to three times a week for 24 weeks supports this claim. The results showed significant improvements in wrinkles associated with natural aging. It fades dark spots and hyperpigmentation. It also helps even out skin tone by speeding up cell turnover and gradually lightening dark marks. Retinol prevents and treats acne. It regulates oil production and keeps pores clear, making it a great ally for acne-prone skin.Improves skin texture: Say goodbye to rough, bumpy skin. Retinol smooths and refines the skin for a more polished complexion.Sounds like a dream, right? But before you get too excited, let’s talk about the not-so-fun side effects. RELATED: Glow on a Budget – The Best Vitamin C Serums Under ₦20,000 What are the Different Types of Retinoids? Not all retinoids are created equal. Depending on their strength and how they convert into retinoic acid (the active form your skin actually uses), they range from mild to highly potent. Here’s a quick breakdown:Retinol Esters (Least Potent, Most Gentle)Retinyl palmitate, acetate, and linoleate are usually found under names like retinyl palmitate. These substances require multiple conversions to become retinoic acid, so this is the gentlest option. It is perfect for sensitive skin and retinol beginners. Retinol (The Standard Over-the-Counter Option)On ingredient labels, this type is simply listed as retinol. However, it requires two conversions to become retinoic acid. It is one of the most researched and effective non-prescription retinoids. Retinal (Stronger Than Retinol, Still Over-the-Counter)Also known as retinaldehyde, this form is stronger than retinol, and it requires only one conversion to turn into retinoic acid. It works 11 times faster than retinol but can be more irritating, and it is best for those who have built a tolerance to retinol.Retinoic Acid Esters (Newer, More Stable, Medium Potency)Found as hydroxypinacolone retinoate (HPR) or “granactive retinoid,” this does not require conversion, which means it works directly on the skin. It is more stable and less irritating than other retinoids.Tretinoin (Most Potent, Prescription-Only)Tretinoin is the purest form of retinoic acid, requiring no conversion. It is highly effective but can be very irritating, so it’s typically prescribed for acne or severe skin concerns. For beginners, retinol or retinol esters are the best starting points because they provide the benefits of retinoids without the extreme irritation of prescription options. READ ALSO: 7 Korean Rice Toners You Can’t Miss For Radiant Skin The (Temporary) Downsides: What to Expect Retinol is amazing, but your skin needs time to adjust. Here’s what you might experience in the first few weeks:Dryness and peeling – Retinol speeds up skin turnover, so you may notice some flaking.Redness and irritation – Especially if you start too strong or use it too frequently.Increased sensitivity to the sun – Retinol makes your skin more prone to sunburn, so SPF is non-negotiable.The “purge”: If you have acne, you might notice breakouts before your skin improves. This is normal, as retinol pushes out all the trapped dirt and oil.But don’t worry as there are ways to minimise these side effects while still reaping the benefits. How to Use Retinol as a Beginner Start Slow  Your skin needs time to build tolerance to retinol. Instead of diving headfirst, start with a low concentration (around 0.025% to 0.05%) and use it once or twice weekly. If your skin handles it well, you can gradually increase the frequency. Try the “Sandwich Method” If your skin is on the sensitive side, the sandwich method can help reduce irritation:Apply a light layer of moisturiser first.Apply a pea-sized amount of retinol (yes, just a pea-sized amount because more won’t work any faster).Apply another layer of moisturiser on top to create a buffer or shield.This method helps keep the skin hydrated while still allowing the retinol to work its magic. Apply on Dry Skin