Here’s How to Use Kojic Acid Safely, According to a Skin Health Expert

In a country where hyperpigmentation treatments should be as common as sunscreen (but often aren’t), kojic acid continues to dominate the skincare conversation in Nigeria. But how much do we really know about it beyond the brightening promises and bestselling soaps?To get the real lowdown, I spoke with Desire Uba, a pharmacist, cosmetic scientist, and skin educator who has made it her life’s work to help Nigerians feel more confident in their skin through the right knowledge, products, and professional care. Trained at the University of Lagos with double master’s degrees in the European Master in Translational Cosmetic and Dermatological Sciences (EMOTION), Uba also holds a certificate in Cosmetic Sciences from the Beauty Therapy Institute. On Instagram and TikTok (@desireuba), she’s a familiar face breaking down complex skin science in a way that’s fresh, fun and wildly informative.“I struggled with pityriasis rosea as a teenager,” she shares. “We tried everything, including agbo, until we finally landed at the dermatology clinic in LUTH. That experience shaped my passion for skincare because I know what it’s like to feel helpless in your own skin.” Today, she educates others and actively curates safe skincare through her retail brand, Dee Skin Store, where she is adamant about authenticity. “I noticed the gap in authenticity for skincare products in Nigeria and that led me to start Dee Skin Store so people can actually access legit products without worrying.”And now, she’s setting the record straight on kojic acid, that fungal-derived ingredient known for fading dark spots and brightening the skin. But as with all actives, the magic is in the method. There’s no shortage of buzz around kojic acid. From serums to soaps, this fungal-derived brightening agent has made its way into the hearts— and skincare shelves —of many Nigerians hoping to fade hyperpigmentation, clear dark spots, and achieve a more even complexion.  Whether you’re a beginner or a beauty junkie, this is one skincare read you’ll want to bookmark. Kojic Acid: What Exactly Is It? Kojic acid, Desire explains, has been brightening skin for over a century. “Kojic acid, sourced from fungi, has a long history of 117 years in skin lightening/brightening and fading dark spots,” she says. It works by “reducing melanin production, which is what gives skin its colour, by attaching to a key enzyme (tyrosinase) and reducing its function.”In simpler terms, this means that it slows down the process that causes dark spots, uneven tone, and hyperpigmentation. Even better, Desire notes, “it may also work by boosting the production of collagen and as an antioxidant.” So not only does your skin look brighter, but it could also look bouncier over time. Aside from its brightening power, kojic acid also has antimicrobial benefits. Yes, it can even help preserve your skincare product. What’s more? It’s one of the few brightening ingredients considered safe for use during pregnancy. “Hormonal changes during pregnancy often lead to hyperpigmentation. Kojic acid is great for this period because it’s effective and generally well-tolerated,” she adds. Is Kojic Acid Too Powerful? Desire is the first to admit that, like all actives, kojic acid comes with a need for caution.“One product is enough. You don’t need to layer three kojic acid products on your face,” she advises. “Start slow, maybe with a wash-off cleanser or a mild serum, and build up. Signs of overuse include redness, itchiness, rashes, and a compromised skin barrier. If your skin starts acting up, pull back.” The Legal Limits and Why They Matter Kojic acid is generally considered safe when used correctly. “In Nigeria, Europe (EU/UK), China, South America, India, it’s allowed at a maximum of 1% for safety purposes,” Desire explains. “In the USA, South Korea, and the Philippines, 2% is the maximum allowed.” Regulatory bodies like NAFDAC have recently cracked down on products exceeding these limits, like the infamous Caro White, which was recently found to contain more than 1% Kojic acid.From 2025, new EU regulations (which NAFDAC is also adopting) will restrict the use of kojic acid to facial and hand applications only, excluding body use. “The science is clear. Follow the guidelines.” Why Skin Experts Love It Unlike some actives that can clash with others or make pregnancy a minefield for skincare routines, Kojic acid is surprisingly flexible. “One thing I adore about Kojic acid is that it is safe to use during pregnancy, which is great because hormonal changes can lead to hyperpigmentation disorders during this sensitive period,” Desire says.She’s also quick to highlight how Kojic acid plays well with others: “Kojic acid is really a chill babe. She doesn’t seem to react negatively or disrupt other active ingredients so you can use it with basically any other ingredient, which is convenient — and works even better when used with other actives.” How to Use Kojic Acid Properly (and Avoid Trouble) Balance is key: Like with all skincare actives, you have to balance your skincare routine when you’re using Kojic acid. Desire recommends starting gently: “For a beginner, you can start with a wash-off form a few times weekly (could be a bar, mask, or wash) or a leave-on product like a serum or moisturiser.”Patch test first: “This should be non-negotiable, especially if you have sensitive skin or a history of contact dermatitis.”Start low and slow: Begin with 1% and work up if needed. Use once daily, max. Desire recommends that, as time progresses, you can increase usage to 1-2 times daily, depending on the complexity of your routine and the potency of the product containing kojic acid. She also recommends applying your products from thinnest to thickest after cleansing, and making sure to apply sunscreen generously during the daytime. And she emphasises to “always remember to watch how your skin reacts to an ingredient or product.”Pair with gentle ingredients: Desire loves combining kojic acid with niacinamide, lactic acid, or mandelic acid for a synergistic effect.Hydrate and protect: She advises keeping your skin hydrated from the inside out by using toners or essences. You can read through our top toners and essence picks in our toners vs. essence article.  Desire also emphasises to always follow up with sunscreen. She encourages “applying sunscreen generously and reapplying every 2-3 hours during the day (10am-4pm especially).”Skip the multiples: “You don’t need three products containing kojic acid to reap its benefits. One is just fine.” Sensitive-skinned readers, take note: Kojic acid is generally well-tolerated, but irritation is possible if overused. Signs of overdoing it include “redness, itchiness, skin tightness, worsening of breakouts, sudden rashes, dullness, and it could also be quite drying,” Desire warns. 5 Well-Formulated Kojic Acid Products That Are Safe and Effective 1. Topicals Faded Brightening and Clearing Serum 2. Topicals Faded Bar 3. Urban Skin Rx Even Tone Super Glow Serum